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You come as you are, already knowing your order and taking comfort in the promise of hot coffee — and maybe a slice of cake, even at breakfast. A golden vision rises above the roadway, beckoning the weary traveler or the hungry local. The South's favorite diner and an Atlanta original, Waffle House has been providing customers with the consummate short-order culinary experience since the first restaurant opened in Avondale Estates in 1955. The bustling staff, open kitchen, jukebox tunes, sizzling grill, and 24-hour convenience all contribute to WaHo's singular charm.
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We need to embrace what makes diners special in the South, and get over the fact that most of these restaurants are not in an old railroad car, decked out in shiny chrome and neon, or sandwiched between two New York City mid-rises. “The South doesn’t have any true diners.” It’s a bold declaration I’ve heard time and again from people who, like me, moved from the Northeast to Atlanta. The irritation in their voices is tinged with disappointment. Even after 30 years here, I sometimes find myself longing for the diners of my youth growing up in southern Connecticut. I live-tweeted my way through the confusion and panic.
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My Atlanta community cried with me and brought over food and made posters and spreadsheets and looked for Hazel themselves. It reached its goal within eight hours, and we bought the billboard space on Thursday, Day 5 of the search. Waffle House is as Atlanta as Coca-Cola, CNN, or Delta, only more demure. You won’t turn on your television to see the king of all-night diners assaulting you with multimillion-dollar advertising campaigns, and you won’t get a jingle stuck in your head, because there isn’t one.
Hazel’s Escape
I moved to Atlanta in 1995 after graduating from college. Like many recent grads then, plentiful job opportunities and affordable housing drew me to Atlanta. I’ve been coming to Atlanta and its suburbs since I was a baby to visit my mother’s family here and in neighboring Alabama, where she grew up. The restaurant opened at the location in 2016 and was popular for patrons of Eddie’s Attic upstairs, people serving jury duty at the nearby courthouse and students from Decatur High School. Six lanes of pavement isn’t normally prime dining real estate, but where is a freeway view more appropriate than Waffle House? Booths in this Conyers location overlook I-20, the cars zipping by serving as reminders of the irreplaceable role WaHo has played on countless road trips.
Doughnut Dollies might be in the spotlight here, but don’t sleep on Canvas. The cozy cafe has uber fluffy pancakes available in orders of two, four, or six. No matter the order, try one of the cafe’s toppings like brown butter apples. The ties that bind a Northern diner to its Southern kinfolk have always been there. The DNA of a diner is clear as day to me now, seen in the regulars who frequent such places and the comforting familiarity of the surroundings, the food, the sounds, and the smells. A Southern diner is just called something else down here, and that’s okay.
If it were easy to fly a dog to another country, she probably would’ve come on that trip to Canada with me. Some folks say a diner is a hodgepodge of inexpensive, unfussy dishes on a menu as long as your arm, that shouldn’t fit together, yet somehow do. For others, it’s the rough-and-ready design that comes alive when plastic booths and Formica counters fill with an eclectic collection of people from all walks of life. Shouts of “order up” from cooks calling to unfazed servers who’ve seen it all, intermingle with conversations, rustling newspapers, and the din of the street beyond the entrance. Meats, pats of butter, and hash browns sizzle on the griddle behind the counter.
Horwitz and Levetan have customers who’ve been regulars since day one. “I think of diners as neighborhood spots in the South, part of the fabric of a community. Hospitality is key,” Steven Horwitz says, who co-owns Java Jive on Ponce de Leon Avenue with his wife, Shira Levetan.
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We are happy to work with you to deliver a unique experience for your guests. Waffle House recently added biscuits to the menu, and butterscotch waffles, and deli turkey. And however improbable, they just made a YouTube video.
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Don’t skip the pecan waffle, though there’s really no wrong order at this Atlanta staple. Drem serves waffles made with an organic mix imported from Poland. On the sweet side, there’s Nutella, apples, and berries, on the savory side, there’s smoked salmon and ham and cheese. After running from her second kind rescuer, Hazel went dark for five days; I have no direct eyewitness accounts. The woman attempted to shoo her away, assuming she was a neighbor’s dog, but Hazel decided to invite herself in. Thanks to the Decaturish story being posted in some local Facebook groups, Hazel’s picture was basically everywhere.
A coworker at my first job in Atlanta — a fellow transplant — sensed my homesickness and remedied it with a trip to the Waffle House near our office. It became a haven for me in those first few months as a newly minted Atlantan. I soon discovered places with similar familiarity like Java Jive, Eats, and the Silver Skillet, and restaurants like Anna Lee’s Southern luncheonette in Roswell and meat and threes including Matthew’s Cafeteria in Tucker and Alpha Soda in Alpharetta. Later, newer restaurants such as Home Grown in Reynoldstown took up the Southern diner mantle. None were called a diner, but they sure felt like them.
Do try the bubble waffle, a Hong Kong-inspired treat. Also known as an egg waffle, the bubble waffle is slightly custardy and pillowy soft, thanks to the bubbles that form. At Whiskey Bird, the waffle comes topped with Nutella, strawberries, blueberries, banana, toasted hazelnuts, whipped cream, and maple syrup. Ford Fry’s Tex Mex joint found in Buckhead and Krog Street Market makes surprisingly delicious pancakes (referred to as hot cakes on the menu.) They’re thin and crispy, served with melt-in-your-mouth powdered sugar, butter, and buttermilk syrup. Don’t see a favorite restaurant for pancakes and waffles listed? Send Eater Atlanta suggestions to check out for the next update via the tipline.
“The night business determines whether we have sales enough to be profitable,” Joe Sr. added. This vibrantly blue-hued charmer in Cabbagetown excels at most brunch dishes, but the liege waffles are standouts. The waffle itself is delicious, but the cinnamon-vanilla bean whipped cream pushes it over the edge.
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